Giant African Land Snails (Achatina fulica) ‘Wild Type’ - Mixed Sizes
Please note: 1-2cm are usually sold as livefood (e.g for pufferfish) as they’re too small at this size to determine which are runts. You are welcome to keep this size as pets but you are responsible for dealing with runts and keeping healthy snails within the trade if you choose to breed them!
A. fulica is known as the Giant East African Land snail, as it originated from the eastern coastal regions of Africa before being introduced to various countries worldwide. These giants habituate grasslands, savannahs and forests in the wild, and are also frequently found on farmland where they are considered an agricultural pest. These snails have earned their name by how big they get as adults, with many growing to sizes of 30cm in length and 10cm in diameter!
A. fulica can become sexually mature within 6 months of hatching and are hermaphrodites, meaning they possess both male and female reproductive organs. Usually mature adults have seven to nine whorls on their cone-shaped shell, which is a very pretty tan brown colour with creamy brown stripes running through it. The shell colour can vary depending on the environment the snail lives in, and often acidic soil can strip the shell making it appear faded and white. We find that a little calcium sand can help reduce the effect of bleaching on the shell.
Interestingly, A. fulica choose a potential mate based on size, as larger individuals are able to produce both spermatozoa and ova compared to smaller, developing individuals which only produce spermatozoa. Each snail is capable of laying an average of 200 eggs per clutch, which are deposited in moist substrate or leaf litter, and new clutches can be laid every 2-3 months if conditions are favourable. A. fulica can live on average between 3-5 years with many reaching 10+ years in captivity!
As these are a nocturnal species, they prefer to spend most of the daytime secluded in their shell and are most active throughout the night. However we often see ours venturing over to new food in their enclosure in the morning and exploring their environment. Like other molluscs, these snails have a structure called a radula which is a belt-like structure of teeth that scrape against food. In our experience, these snails are not picky eaters and will devour a wide variety of fruits and vegetables. Younger snails prefer softer fruits like banana and cucumber and decaying matter like leaf litter. Older snails prefer living plants and vegetation, but will still occasionally graze on leaf litter and wood.
Adult size: 30cm in length, 10cm in diameter
Lifespan: up to 10 years
Status: captive bred
Place of Origin: East Africa, now worldwide
Temperature: 15-29 °C
Humidity: 70-80%
Diet: leaf litter, rotten hardwood, lichen and algae, mushrooms, wide variety of fruits (melon, apple, banana, pear, cucumber, peppers, tomato), wide variety of vegetables (carrots, potatoes, broccoli,), leafy greens (romaine lettuce, spinach (see below), basil, kale, cabbage, dandelion greens), protein supplement (fish pellets/ flakes, bee pollen, algae waters), fruit jelly pots optional
-Calcium supplement: have a source present in the enclosure at all times. Do not put calcium directly on food as snails self regulate their calcium!(cuttlebone, egg shells, calcium powder, oyster shell)
Note: spinach, parsley and swiss chard are higher in calcium oxalate which can inhibit the snails calcium uptake if fed too often. Avoid iceberg lettuce and celery due to having low nutrient content.
The EntoScapes Way
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- We keep our adults in a 90L plastic storage tub which measures at around 60x40x60cm. There are holes drilled across the lid with some down the side for cross ventilation. We keep young snails in a 20L storage tub with holes drilled across the lid. We keep our snails at 22˚C and 80% humidity. You can use a heat mat on the side of the tank above the substrate level if your house is on the cooler side, but these snails can tolerate lower temperatures.
- We like to use plenty of large cork bark, fake and live plants, and hardwood branches to provide both climbing and hiding opportunities. We often see our adults and babies exploring the tank in the day so it's important to have an enriching, natural environment for them. We suggest keeping the substrate damp (not soaking!) by misting 2-3 times a week or when the top of the substrate has dried out a bit. We also place a shallow dish of water in one corner, so snails have constant access to moisture.
- We have had success using both our Rainforest and Millipede Edible substrates for these, but a substrate that is rich in organic material and can hold moisture well is also suitable. A substrate depth of around 10cm is sufficient, but deeper allows the snails to bury themselves more comfortably. Leaf litter, moss and botanicals can be added on top of the substrate for a more natural feel and will also be munched on by the snails.
- We feed our snails twice a week with fresh fruits and veggies, along with a good sprinkling of fish flakes and bee pollen around the whole enclosure. Make sure there is always a calcium source present as snails will rasp on eachother's shells without it. Start with a small amount of food and monitor how long it takes your colony to finish it before increasing portions. Not only does this help you reduce food waste it also prevents outbreaks of mites and fruit flies. We also check for eggs once a week and suggest freezing the eggs if you do not plan on having up to 200 baby snails each time the snails lay!
- We recommend staying on top of spot cleaning and remove any uneaten food and waste from the enclosure 1-2 times a week. Substrate should only be changed if it becomes overly dirty, but generally only half of the substrate should be changed at a time to avoid shocking the snails and depleting healthy bacteria. We advise adding a clean-up crew like springtails and dwarf white isopods to help keep the substrate maintained and your tank clean and healthy!
