High Quality Livefood- Live Crickets - Prepack Tubs Medium/Large
High quality livefood bred by us to our high welfare standards! These are bred on a small-scale rather than mass-farmed to ensure the crickets have minimal stress and are all of optimum condition, which is reflected in our pricing!
Only need a small amount? No problem! We have a range of tubs suited to different hobbyists needs
These tubs will contain a mixture of House crickets (Acheta domesticus) and Banded crickets (Gryllodes sigillatus)
Prepack tubs contain L3-Adult individuals, or medium-large crickets
Scroll down for more care information! We highly suggest following our care guide under 'The EntoScapes Way' to truly get the most out of your livefood. The tub the crickets are shipped in is not suitable for long-term housing.
Note: These are not suitable for small amphibians or invertebrates such as tarantula slings due to their size. We plan to have pinhead crickets available in the near future!
The EntoScapes Way
Shipping Info
Return & Refund Policy - Live Inverts
- We suggest keeping Crickets at room temp, or between 20-21 degrees C for best results. Crickets need high ventilation which prevents stagnant, humid conditions from developing which can break down waste and dead crickets, releasing ammonia which can quickly kill your colony. There is also no need to mist spray your colony, as they will get all their moisture needs from fresh food. Depending on how large your colony is, we suggest housing 20-50 in a large cricket keeper or 40x30x30cm min. storage tub with ventilation holes drilled along all sides. Make sure the holes are small enough so the smallest crickets cannot escape! You can cover the lid with mesh or cheese cloth to prevent any flies or unwanted things from entering the enclosure. We surprisingly keep our crickets in the mesh enclosures designed for butterflies. The plastic screen goes at the bottom which catches all the feaces and waste, and the crickets can climb along the mesh and get excellent ventilation.
- There are a variety of bedding options which are suitable for housing crickets, including sawdust, wheat bran and soil. We have found that using aspen shavings for the substrate works well, but a mixture of coco-coir and sand is our preferred choice for small colonies. The crickets can dig in the soil and express natural behaviours, and females can lay eggs in the soil which can be incubated if you plan to breed your own. We have also had success with keeping a large colony on tissue paper, which we routinely replace when there is a lot of waste build up. We provide a small tub of damp soil for females to lay their eggs, which we then remove and incubate seperately at 27-28 degrees C for 10-14 days.
- Another key aspect to keeping crickets successfully is surface area! You can provide plenty of surface area by adding egg cartons, coconut hides, cardboard tubes and bark pieces for the crickets to hide in and find a spot to molt without being disturbed. This is also extremely important if you want to keep stress levels to a minimum within the colony, which prevents cannibalism and limb autotomy, or self-amputation. Happier crickets means healthier crickets, and better food for your reptiles, amphibians and inverts!
- when it comes to feeding fresh food, you want to pick foods that are readily eaten by crickets but are also safe for the animals you plan to feed the crickets to. With this in mind, we suggest providing your crickets with small pieces of fresh fruit and veg like apple, pear, potato, cucumber, courgette, and sweet potato, and leafy greens like romaine lettuce and cabbage. Other keepers use vegetable scraps or peelings from cooking, but when we tried this we found our crickets did not eat much of it and were not getting enough moisture. You can provide small pieces to begin with and alternate the amount depending on how quickly it is consumed. Ideally, the fresh food should be consumed within 1-3 days, but you can remove any uneaten food and replace it before it encourages mould.
- We also recommend providing a shallow dish of protein rich food like oats, bran, corn meal, dried mealworms, fish flake and fish pellets. We tend to mix a small amount of all of these foods so there is variety within their diet and also helps with optimal growth. We suggest keeping the dry food dish topped up so the crickets always have access to protein, which also discourages them from nibbling on molting crickets. You can provide bug gel or water crystals, but we find crickets get all their water needs from the fresh food.
- Finally you should keep on top of tank hygiene and keeping your colonies home clean. The quickest way to kill your colony is by having too much waste build up from feaces, molts and dead crickets. Once a week, check your colony for any signs of mold or concerns, and remove anything that is not needed. You can also take this time to check your crickets to see if the housing size needs changing or if they are overpopulating, which is another huge factor in increasing stress levels. You can do a substrate change if there is a noticeable build up of waste, but remember to freeze and dispose of the old substrate safely and responsibly!
PriceFrom £0.90
